Friday, 15 March 2019

Two wine tastings in a day? Challenge accepted...!


Last Thursday I had the day off from my day-job, which was exceedingly fortunate as I had received invites to two prestigious wine tastings that day. They were very different affairs, but I enjoyed both tremendously and as is always the way with these kinds of tastings, I learned a heck of a lot (plus I got to drink some delicious wine!).

Côtes du Rhône Tasting


The first tasting of the day was held in the rather splendid H Club in London’s Soho. H Club is a private members’ club that specialises in catering for members of the creative arts industries. As you would expect the building is stylishly laid out and features a number of rather lovely looking bars and restaurants for people to wine and dine customers and hold business lunches. The tasting that I was there for was held in the “Forest Room”, which was a rather attractive looking room with a forest motif around it and tables set up which contained 92 different wines to taste from the Côtes du Rhône (CdR) appellation. This includes both wines that feature the CdR general designation and also some wines from named villages within the Cotes du Rhône area.

I love these kinds of tastings. They are free-pour, which allows you to choose what you want to taste and you get to work your way around at whatever speed you see fit. Obviously, if you are going to taste your way methodically around these wines you will need to spit, which means that you often find yourself in a queue at a spittoon - although fortunately there were plenty around for the tasters to use.

The whites 


I started with the whites and was really impressed with the quality. I was (unwisely) a little wary of whites at this level of designation, but I knew that at the mid- and top-level Rhône whites can be fabulous; so I was intrigued to see what these wines would offer. Overall these wines were priced between £5 and £15 and represented tremendous value, they were a real joy, particularly at the price point. Lovely acidity and fruit flavours (mainly juicy lemon and apricot), with some real weight to the wines. Not particularly seeing much evidence of oak and buttery flavours, but more with a depth and balance of flavour.

The rosés


After the whites, I moved onto the rosés - there were only a few on show and I found them to be rather pleasant and rather serious wines. There are some rosés that are a little wispy, dainty and thin; designed to be quaffed in a pub by the bucket-load. These weren’t that kind of wine, they had a bit of presence and style and would have gone nicely with food.

And now... time for the reds!


It was time to move on to the reds - there were much more of these on show over a couple of vintages. One of the things I quite like about these kinds of tastings is that it allows the relatively uninitiated (like me) the chance to learn a bit more about the wine world and one of the main things I was able to do was look at trends within my assessments of the wines. What became quickly apparent was that I was favouring the 2017 vintage over the 2016; I found the 2017s to possess well integrated tannins with nice, dark fruit notes but a savoury profile that gave the wines real structure and depth. In comparison the 2016s were a little shorter, sharper and more acidic; lacking a bit in depth and nuance. The other thing that really stood out is that in the (relatively) small number of wines at a higher price-point (in this case £15+) I found that there weren’t really any wines that stood out from some of the excellent wines that were being sold for £10 - £15. In terms of value for money, you were better off staying at the lower end - in my opinion.

I must confess that my notes above lack any reference to specific wines as I misplaced my notes from the tasting on the way home. Fortunately I had written up some general musings on my ‘phone though!

I must offer many thanks to Alexandra Gerolami who organised this event and kindly invited me along to.

Wines from Spain Tasting


Next up was a trip to the very definition of a bar with a view - the Skygarden in the infamous “Walkie-Talkie” building for one of my favourite wine events of the year - Wines from Spain. The line up of producers that come and exhibit at this event gets better and larger every year and the organisers do a wonderful job. This is the first time, however, that they have held the event in Skygarden and it was also my first visit to this bar. I know that tall buildings in London are not everyone’s cup of tea, but once I was up there and looking out over the Thames and around London’s skyline it really is a breathtaking sight. What better place to enjoy a nice glass of something?

Some highlights


I didn’t spend a huge amount of time wandering around the producers, but I did enjoy discovering some wines from Marques de Murrieta - one of the most historic Rioja producers. Their 2009 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva was an excellent example of a Gran Reserva that is just entering its drinking window, but has years ahead of it. I was also intrigued by their 2014 Dalmau which contains predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and is their attempt to create a “super-Rioja” in the vein of “super Tuscans”. 

I also enjoyed spending a bit of time with Altanza Bodegas, another Rioja producer but this time sampling their sherries made in collaboration with Roberto Amillo (Jerez). I particularly enjoyed their Colección R. Amillo Olorosoand Palo Cortado both of which were rich, vibrant and balanced. I also particularly liked the bottle designs that they used, which gave the wines a very distinctive look.

A Verdejo Masterclass with Sarah Jane Evans MW


The main reason, though, I didn’t spend much time walking around the various producers is because I was very keen to attend one of Wines from Spain’s ever-excellent and informative masterclasses - this time from the inimitable Sarah Jane Evans MW on the wines of Rueda. I first met Sarah Jane when I went to Rioja last year for the Cata Estación last year and I knew that I’d be in for a treat with her masterclass. Rueda is an area that not too many people outside the wine trade will know too well - however it is the spiritual home of one of Spain’s greatest contributions to the wine world - the Verdejo grape. The people from Verdejo are on a bit of a mission to get their wines better recognised in the UK and it seems to be working as sales are up year on year for the last couple of years. 

We tried our way through five different DO (Denominción de Origen) wines from Rueda but I want to focus on my two favourites. The first was a 2017 Belondrade y Lurton(100% Verdejo) which had a supremely expressive and floral nose that exuded class. This wine had been aged in French oak and had a beautiful buttery characteristic (which contrasted some of the other, slightly more angular wines in the tasting). This wine will develop and evolve over the next couple of years - I certainly plan on getting hold of a few to see how they go! Now for something completely different (as they say…) with a NV Carrasviñas Dorado Ruedafrom Félix Lorenzo Cachazo which was largely Verdejo but importantly possessed 20% Palomino Fino which gave the wine a lovely oxidative nose that I adored as a sherry-lover. For me this was a wine that will divide crowds; I loved it as it felt like a half-way house between a traditional Verdejo and a Fino sherry - it would go beautifully with food, some nice olives or even some salted almonds. Mmmm…!

Sarah Jane was as interesting and amiable a host as ever and I really enjoyed this tasting of some lovely wines.

There you have it - two wine tastings done in a day. Lots learned, many lovely wines tasted. A reminder of why I love living in London so much.

Friday, 1 March 2019

Open That Bottle Night 2019 - what did you open?


For some people the last weekend in February is a rather special time. I am one of those people. A couple of years ago I stumbled upon a wine-based concept that I fell in love with - Open That Bottle Night. Briefly the premise is that February is a dreary month and people need something to brighten it up. Two wine lovers who wrote for the Wall Street Journal, Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher decided that they wanted to find a reason to open that special bottle of wine that you’ve been saving for a while. They told of stories of people who have been holding onto that bottle of ‘45 Haut-Brion and agonising over when was the right time to open this majestic wine and too often people held on to the wine too long only to find that it hadn’t been stored properly or that it had some kind of fault. Instead, to Gaiter and Brecher they felt that the bottle of wine that you have in your cellar should be the occasion; invite friends and family round to enjoy that bottle of wine in great company! I love the idea of this and have now done this for the last few years.

In 2016 I opened a bottle of 2012 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett (Mosel, Germany).













In 2017 I opened a bottle of 2012 Tignanello (Tuscany, Italy).













In 2018 I opened a bottle of 2011 Clos Mogador (Priorat, Spain)













So, what did I open in 2019 I hear you ask?

I went back to Italy for my wine this year. I had a lovely bottle of 2005 Muga Reserva that I was severely tempted by and a bottle of 2006 Pichon-Longeuville Baron that I was eying up, but I was surprised to find that I was instead drawn to a 2009 Casanova Di Nero Tenuta Nuova (Brunello Di Montalcino, Italy). This was a wine that I picked up direct from the winery when I visited it in October as part of a walking holiday I went on through Tuscany - something that I can highly recommend (the photo on the left is on the way to the winery as you walk up the drive!). Very few places in the world truly excite the senses like Tuscany does, the food, the wines and the scenery are all absolutely phenomenal. We walked through the countryside that gives you Brunello di Montalcino (one of the very best red wines in the world, in my opinion) and that gives you Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. I wrote a piece for Vinspire on my experiences in Tuscany that you can read about by following this LINK if you are interested.

So, enough of the trip down memory lane - tell us about the wine! I decided to give it about an hour in the decanter as I wanted to coax it back to life; it had been sleeping for ten years after all. In the glass it had an interestingly murky appearance, with a kind of damson red to it. On the nose it was all I could have hoped for and more; it was fragrant and evocative. I noted primary aromas of "fruits of the forest" with blackberries and blueberries coming through particularly strongly. There was also definitely some deeper and more interesting notes of cedar, marzipan and tobacco that gave the wine a real majesty in the glass. When I tasted it I admired the beautiful freshness and cleanliness to the wine, which had a real poise about it. The tannins were nice, smooth and well-integrated, as one would expect from a ten year old wine of this type. There were lovely dark fruit flavours with a nice lick of savouriness and smokiness to the wine that I enjoyed thoroughly. All in all this was a truly wonderful wine and one that was perfect for "Open That Bottle Night". We paired it, appropriately, I think, with a Tuscan Sausage Stew and the wine was a great match for it.

Did you drink anything special for "Open That Bottle Night"? If so, what did you drink? If not, do you fancy doing it in 2020? Start thinking about what that special bottle of wine could be and who you could share it with...!















Wednesday, 23 January 2019

Cooking with booze: Burns Night – Highland stew – Recipe and cocktails

Photo by Jun

I may not have an ounce of Scottish blood in me, but I’m always up for a good knees up, especially one that involves whisky. While many people will be tucking into the haggis this Burns Night, you may want an alternative dish to devour while you’re mumbling your way through Auld Lang Syne after one dram too many. 

I won’t commit the mortal sin of calling this a pie when it’s a stew with a puff pastry top, that’s for the gastro pubs of this world to do. But it is a very tasty Highland stew with puff pastry top, and is the perfect dish to serve this Burns Night.

Highland stew with neeps and tatties
(Serves four)




Ingredients

Stew
900g stewing beef (two packets)
100g smoked lardons
500ml stout
200ml ruby port
2 large white onions
3 garlic cloves
2 bay leaves
3 tbsp flatleaf parsley
5 pickled walnuts (and 2 tbsp pickled walnut vinegar)
60g butter
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp plain flour
Salt and pepper

Puff pastry top
Ready rolled puff pastry

Neeps and tatties
Half a swede
16 new potatoes
Butter

Method
1. Marinate your beef in the stout, with the garlic and bay leaves for around five hours in the fridge, or overnight if possible.
2. Preheat the oven (fan) to 130°C.
3. In a large pan, heat the oil and butter.
4. On a medium-high heat, brown and seal the beef. Once browned, remove and set aside.
5. In the same pan, fry the bacon and onions until the onions are soft and translucent.
6. Stir in the flour and mix, then add the port, stout marinade, beef, and season.
7. Transfer to an ovenproof casserole dish, fit the lid, and cook for 2.5hours in the oven, stirring occasionally.
8. Remove from the oven and pop back on the hob, so you can cook your puff pastry tops. Halve the pickled walnuts and add to the stew, along with the pickling vinegar. Simmer for around 30minutes. 9. Add the chopped parsley just before serving.

Neep and tatties
1. Roughly chop the swede into large chunks and boil for 50minutes.
2. Parboil the potatoes for 10minutes in salted water.
3. Pop the potatoes into the oven with the stew for 15minutes, then turn the heat up to 200°C when the stew comes out and roast for 30-35minutes.
4. Drain the swede and roughly mash together with a decent amount of butter.

Puff pastry tops
1. Unroll the puff pastry and cut into shape
2. Pop in the oven for 10-15minutes until golden brown

Drinks

If you don’t fancy a night on the drams, here are a couple of loosely-Scottish cocktails (they feature whisky), to get you in the mood.

Scotch Old Fashioned 



While rye or bourbon are the 'proper' choices for an Old Fashioned, it's Burns Night, so we're heading away from the whiskey and hitting the whisky. Granted, you're not going to want to use the Belvenie 50-year-old single malt you've all got lying around, but a smooth, clean, not-too-peaty, Scotch will work great.

Ingredients
50ml Scotch whisky
3/4tsp light brown sugar
A few dashes of Angostura bitters
Orange peel
A little patience

Method
1. Soak the sugar in the Angostura and begin to dissolve with a spoon.
2. Add a good handful of ice cubes and continue to stir.
4. Add around half the whisky and keep stirring.
5. Add the rest of the Scotch and stir some more.
6. Stir for another couple of minutes.
7. Garnish with a twist of orange peel.

Haig Clubman

For those of you who might not be quite into your whisky yet, this is an easy, light, accessible drink to start with. We can work you up to the Laphroaig in a couple of months...!



Ingredients
50ml Haig Club
35ml Appletiser
6 dashes ginger bitters

Combine all the ingredients in a highball or tumbler, with plenty of ice, and garnish with a very thin slice of root ginger.

How will you be celebrating this Burns Night? Hitting the haggis or using the night as an excuse to pull out that tasty Scotch?



Friday, 18 January 2019

The top ten mega mocktails for January


If you’ve been doing ‘Dry January’ and have actually stuck to it, then firstly, pat yourself on the back. Secondly, scream and shout because it’s nearly over (ish)! To make things a bit easier, we’ve rounded up the ten best mocktail recipes we could find.

The key to a mocktail’s success is down to intrigue; you can’t shove an average cordial in a glass, top it with soda, and garnish it with a slice of lemon, expecting to be wowed. Sure, we don’t need booze all the time, and there are plenty of top-notch soft drinks around to tantalise the taste buds, but cocktails work due to the balance of alcohol, sugar, acidity and bitterness - you’re not likely to get that with just an elderflower spritz, are you?

If you’re feeling like you’re missing out on all those lovely alcoholic delights that you keep seeing on Instagram, it’s time to get serious about mocktails. Fresh fruit, citrus and herbs are your heroes here, you want to be building your drink as you would a proper cocktail, and don’t be afraid to make your own syrups; they’re easy to do and will keep in the fridge for ages.

Just put in a teeny bit of effort before being able to smugly sip on something extra special... Your drunken pals will certainly be eyeing up your saintly glass!

We’ll start with something deliciously fruity and classically British: strawberries.


  • This floral fresh Strawberry Rose Water Fizz from Kitchenette Blog is simple but effective. And if you love it, when it gets to February, try topping with prosecco instead of soda water.
  • The Pink Panther from Nosh My Way is smooth, creamy and kind of retro. Strawberries and cream will always be a winning combo, but add pineapple into the equation and hello.

Another British classic - though a slightly more sultry - fruit, with its deep purple colour, is the blackberry. 



Next we have some zingy mocktails...



Herbs are where it’s at with these next three.



Finally, the indulgent creamy mocktails for any time that you require some comfort.


  • Lavender Hot Chocolate from A La Mode is a fragrant hug in a mug. You can buy lavender in the supermarkets now (with all the herbs and spices), but don’t over-do it or you’ll be in soap territory.
  • Sweep Tight have come up with the awesome Coquito, with coconut milk, evaporated milk and condensed milk. Anything made with that dreamy milk is going to be frickin’ ace. FACT.

Now go and have some booze-free fun.

Wednesday, 16 January 2019

New Year, No Alcohol - Alcohol Free Drinks (Part 2)


Welcome to the second part of my guide to staying dry(ish) during the lean month of January. 2 weeks in and its been tough....So tough that I fell to pieces 1 week and 6 days ago, so rather than this being a 'Let's get through this together' piece, this is now a 'I feel your pain, but will not join you in your suffering' piece. That has not stopped me from searching out some other non-alcoholic alternatives to your Wednesday night tipple in front of the big match.

I enjoy a good beer on a special occasion (Birthdays, Weddings, Tuesdays,..), so the hardest part for me was missing out on a nice tasting brew without the big percentage to go with it. With it being the season for abstention, there are so many low and non-alcoholic beers on the marketplace to choose from, finding one wasn't going to be a problem. Finding one with flavour, bite and refreshment within the liquid could have been.

Exactly like alcohol-free wine, non-alcoholic beer starts off as the real deal. The grain is steeped in hot water, sugars extracted creating the wort (sugary liquid). The hops are added with other spices to balance out the sweetness of the liquid with the bitterness of the hops. Yeast added, this starts converting the sugars to alcohol. The difference is that rather than alcoholic brews being bottled/canned/kegged, the newly created beer is heated (to boil the alcohol away) through 'vacuum distilling' so as not to alter the beautiful beery flavour too much.

Alcohol free beer is not really a new phenomenon. It was first produced on a large scale during the Prohibition period in the US during 1920s, where brewers needed something to keep their 'regular' drinking, whilst also keeping on the right side of the law. 'Near Beers' (as they were called) were so popular that near 1 billion litres were being produced by 1921, with all the major beer producers of the day (Miller, Pabst, Schlitz) getting in on the act. Nowadays, alcohol free beer is booming, largely thanks to changing drinking cultures and a considerable boom in the Middle East. In this country, a survey conducted by AB Inbev (owner of the non-alcoholic Becks Blue brand) showed that of people looking to cut back the drink, 34% will turn to alcohol-free beer, a 20% increase on the previous year and that 19% of the people surveyed admitted that they couldn't taste the difference between 'fake' beer and 'real' beer. Now, that either shows that the tastebuds of the people who were surveyed had either been obliterated by booze to the point they couldn't detect an ABV if it smacked them in the face, or that producers had started to create an amber nectar that had all of the taste of the real thing, with none of the headache-inducing side effects. Time for me to find out...


First up to face the bottle opener was the Erdinger Alkoholfrei 'beer' (available at beersofeurope.co.uk for £1.64 a bottle). I put the beer word in inverted commas as its technically not a beer at all, but an isotonic drink that looks and pours like a beer. The problem I've always had with alcohol free beer is that it is too sweet, and this also has a tinge of sweetness, but not overly so. It really does have elements of Weissbier, that slight grainy and wheaty taste and a very full and creamy texture. I would go as far to say that you could slip one of these into a Wheat Beer drinking fest and not notice that you had a 'ringer' in the midst.

Next was the San Miguel 0,0% Limon (available at Ocado, £3 for 4). The Lass persuaded me to grab this one, as she is fervently following the Dry January concept. San Miguel isn't really my tipple, but I have tried the 'added Lemon' fad with beer before and not found it too bad (Fosters Radler isn't a bad summery drop). This wasn't really my drop. Tasting slightly like cooled down Lemsip, you get bashed with a smack of sweetness and, although it is refreshing, it's just too artificial for me and you may as well be downing a pint of Lemonade.

Last in line was Sainsbury's own Czech Low Alcohol Pilsner Lager (£1.20 a bottle from Sainsburys). Now I know this isn't an alcohol-free beer, but I had heard really good stuff about this and at 0.5%, its still considered low alcohol, so I shall include it (na, na, naa, naaa, na...). I wasn't disappointed. Made by the Staropramen brewery, I like their own brew and this one is just as good. Clean, crisp, it has the sharpness you want from a lager and still has the slight bitter kick of a fully hopped version.

So, having tried both alcohol free wines and beers, I have to say that I am impressed with how similar some of the examples I have tried are to the real thing (or at least have crammed in some flavours that stop you from wishing they were). Is it enough to get me to quit the drink permanently? Evidently not from my statement at the start of this article. I am coming from a slightly biased point of view (as I obviously work in the industry), but my mantra has always been 'Drink less and Drink Better'. Binge drinking is always a bad idea, but if people feel they have to give up having a drop of the good stuff for a whole month to 'give their liver a breather', then they are really telling themselves that they are drinking too much in the previous 11 and feeling guilty about it.

However, will I turn my nose up at the offer of an alcohol free beer in the pub, in favour of over-sweetened carbonated brown fizzy slop? Not anymore...

What is your opinion of the alcohol-free drinks market? Have you tried any that would recommend to Vinspire readers? Comment on our twitter page or on our facebook page!

Sunday, 6 January 2019

New Year, No Alcohol - Alcohol Free Drinks (Part 1)

(courtesy of Stuart Miles and www.freedigitalphotos.net)

As the last bong tolled on Big Ben at midnight 31st December, 2018, many of you lovely people would have greedily been tucking into something tasty and boozy to welcome in the New Year. What you may have also been doing is saying goodbye to your beloved companion Alcohol for January; your partner through the good times and bad, the devil (or angel) on your shoulder guiding you through life's tricky decisions such as "I know I'm at work at 6am tomorrow, but should I really leave the bar yet? Nah..." or "Karaoke is definitely my bag, but will one more glass of plonk make me better? Damn right it will!"

'Dry January' has become a phenomenon that is really taking hold. As people shudder at the excesses that come with a bit of time off from work at Christmas and the excuse of over-eating and over-drinking, the charity Alcohol Concern and the government joined together to push the idea of giving up the booze for 31 days, in order to get the population to think more about their consumption and the effect it can have on them.

Now, not being one to be tight-lipped on questions of drink, I have my reservations with regards to it, which I'll come to later, but rather than give up in its entirety (even smokers have to have something minty to chew on to munch through the cravings), I have decided to see if there is something on the market out there to fill in the gap of 4 weeks where many of you will be abstaining and waiving the hand of 'no thank you'. Over two articles, I'm going to try some of the alcohol-free alternatives that you can get on the market at the moment (and I'm not doing a taste test on different flavours of Fanta, if that's what you think...).

There are 3 main ways in which you can get rid of the alcohol in wine, but it is important to remember that even de-alcoholised wines start off as normal 9%-12% beverages, and the removal of alcohol only happens after the fermentation process has been completed. The main way of doing it is through a process of 'Steam Vacuuming', where the wine is passed through a vacuum and heated to remove the alcohol (alcohol has a lower boiling point than other liquids), allegedly without getting rid of all the flavours of the wine. Other ways it can be done are through 'Reverse Osmosis' (forcing the wine through a membrane to separate the alcohol from the wine) and through centrifugal force (essentially throwing the alcohol out of the wine - this one is rarely done as it takes many attempts to get a finished product). Debate rages about whether these processes alter the flavour compounds of the liquid (one read of The Daily Telegraph critic Victoria Moore's opinions will have you running for the nearest Shiraz), but the best way to test to see is by quite literally 'downing the entire bottle'...



First off, me and The Lass (who is content to push alcohol to one side for January) popped the cork on Echo Falls Tisane (available at Asda for £3 a bottle). The USP with this is that even though it technically contains 10% grape juice concentrate, it looks like a proper sparkling wine and even smells faintly of a Cava-like drink. A bit citrussy, and a bit herby on the nose (it is infused with Green Tea, mind, so I'd hope it should do), it looks a faintly like apple juice in the glass. Tasting-wise, it isn't bad. Lively stuff and it has a clean taste. Nothing like the real thing though mind.

The following day, we consumed Eisberg Alcohol Free Rose (available to buy in Morrisons for £2.75). We'll start with the good point. Marketed at only 33 calories per glass, it seems to be the perfect tipple for the staunch Dry January-er. Unfortunately, the bad points seem to pile high. It has a slightly oxidised pink look to it, like someone has diluted crab paste. It smells of jelly babies and has a real sweetness on the taste. The taste isn't unpleasant, but it has a slightly fishy aftertaste. Not for everyone.

To finish off, we then tucked into Sainsbury's 'Winemakers Selection' Alcohol Free Red (on sale at Sainsburys for £3). What I found startling was how sweet the wine was. After having a sly butchers at the label, I saw that it has 7.5g of sugar per 125ml glass! Fine if you are trying to avoid the booze, but not so great if you are trying to keep the calories down. It has a slight undiluted blackcurrant cordial taste to it and quite light in body. Perfectly drinkable if you chill it slightly, but don't treat it as a normal red wine.

There are many different places where you can get 'de-alcoholised wines'. Not only are there specialist websites that you can peruse to see what percentage-less bottles you desire (a couple of the best ones are www.lono.co.uk or www.alcoholfree.co.uk), but you can easily wander into your local supermarket and get a good selection of products for you to choose from.

Next week, I'll give you a run-down on some alcohol free lagers that can hopefully tame the raging beer beast inside you.















Wednesday, 12 December 2018

Best supermarket champagne, fizz and sparkling wine




Sparkling wine is the perfect party drink. We’ve picked our selection of the best bottles of affordable fizz for this Christmas and New Year’s Eve.

Champagne

Tesco Finest Premier Cru Brut ChampagneChardonnay and Pinot Noir

Wow wow wow. For the money, this Champagne is exquisite. An absolute bargain. So much wine for £19. Elegant, fine, crisp, intense. Buy some.

This Champagne spends 30-36 months in the bottle during the second fermentation, which is longer than the average for Champagne. The Chardonnay grapes come from Premier and Grand Cru vineyards near Avize, and the Pinot Noir comes only from the Grand cru villages of Bouzy and Ambonnay.



Aldi Veuve Monsigny Champagne Brut
Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir

This is one of the best value supermarket Champagnes out there. It’s quite often on offer below £10, which is a bit of a bargain. It’s made by Champagne house Philizot & Fils, which is one of the smaller houses. Peachy, a bagful of apples, a lovely creaminess and a nice acidity. Nothing too complex about it, but that doesn’t make it less enjoyable.

Waitrose Brut Champagne
Pinot Noir (90%) and Chardonnay (10%)

This is another good value for money champagne: it’s smooth, ripe and elegant. It also has a lovely biscuity toastiness to it, and will go very nicely with lighter pastry starters, or simply as an aperitif. It will happily stand up against some of the big bruts in the champagne world.




Italian fizz – prosecco and Franciacorta


Tesco, Finest Franciacorta
Chardonnay (80%) and Pinot Bianco (20%) 

I’ve been singing the praises of Franciacorta for a good while now, and it’s great to see a relatively inexpensive (and good) bottle in a supermarket. This Tesco Finest example is produced by Castel Faglia. The nose is lemony and doughy – reminds me of a lemon and poppyseed muffin. It’s got a delightful green apple note that gets a bit creamy towards the end, and soft bubbles. If you see bottle of this, do get your hands on one, especially if you haven’t yet tried Franciacorta.


Aldi Prosecco Superiore DOCG
Glera

Floral, ripe apples, peachy tones, not too sweet, and with a refreshing acidity, a DOCG wine for this price is good value. DOCG is the highest classification of quality among Italian wines. And when it comes to prosecco, a DOCG one has to be produced in the Treviso province of Veneto on the hills between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Specific.



Sainsbury's Conegliano Prosecco, Taste the Difference
Glera

This is my go to supermarket prosecco, and has been for a few years. It’s not too sweet, has fine bubbles, and yummy floral, apricot and citrus notes. Unfortunately though, it’s rather easy to drink.



Crémant


Calvet Brut Rosé, Crémant de Bordeaux 2016
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot

I’m not sure if I should be recommending this wine or not, as it is deliciously moreish. It’s fruity, aromatic, and complex, with a long finish. It’s such a lovely colour too, and much dryer than the blush pink would suggest. It’s perfect as both an aperitif, or to serve with dessert, especially if you’re having a lighter, fruit-based pud. This Crémant is made in the same way as a Champagne, with a second fermentation in the bottle for 11 months before disgorging and dosage.

Calvet Brut, Crémant de Bordeaux 2016
Sémillon and Cabernet Franc

If pink isn’t your thing, Calvet’s Brut Crémant is also lovely. With Crémant, you’re getting a champagne-quality product at a prosecco price, and it’s a good one to try if you fancy something a little different. This wine is fresh and balanced, with fine bubbles, and it tastes like melon and brioche. The Brut has a second fermentation in the bottle for nine months, before disgorging and dosage.

Sainsbury's Crémant De Loire Rose, Taste the Difference
Chenin Blanc (85%) and Chardonnay (15%)


This Crémant is a little sweeter, but is still a perfect party sparkler. It’s also just as delicious in summer as in winter. It’s full of vibrant berry flavours with Galia melon. This is one to have with your smoked salmon blinis on Christmas Day morning.


English sparkling wine

Greyfriars sparkling classic cuvee 2013
46% Chardonnay, 36% Pinot Noir & 18% Pinot Meunier

English sparkling wine is still on the pricier side, but this Greyfriars’ cuvee is surprisingly affordable at £20 a bottle. It’s bone dry, and packed with green apple and lemon flavours. On the nose, it’s minerally (it’s the only one of Greyfriars’ wines that hasn’t been oaked) with zesty citrus and green apple. And there are plenty of bubbles. There are only 11,000 bottles of this vintage, and they’re getting down to the last few, so it’s the last chance you’ll have to taste it.


Bluebell Vineyard, Hindleap, blanc de blanc 2014
100% Chardonnay

Bright, fine bubbles, rich in the mouth, and a very long finish. It’s super fruity, with sharp pink grapefruit, and softer melon. Perfectly delicious to drink today – and drink it I have, with fabulous fish and chips from Fosters in Alderley Edge – but it will keep for a good few years too. 




Chapel Down Three Graces 2014
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier

I’ve had this wine a few times now, and it’s one I really love. It’s great value for the price, and it’s got a lot going on. It’s got aromas of baked apple pie, and some of that rich sweetness comes through when you taste it, mixed with a crisp acidity. Smooth, fine bubbles.  



Thursday, 6 December 2018

Wine subscription boxes: the best ones on offer


For me, one of the best ways that you can expand both your knowledge about wine and your wine collection is through a wine subscription. Wine subscriptions tend to work in various ways but there are a few general models: the first is one where you pay a monthly subscription fee to a wine merchant or distributor, who at an interval that you agree use the funds to buy wines that you can then have delivered or stored in reserves; the second is a subtle variation where you get a monthly box of wine in exchange for whatever subscription you pay. As you can probably imagine, like anything, the more money you put into the subscription the greater either the value of the wines that you buy or the volume of bottles. The real beauty for me, is that you put your hard-earned cash in the hands of real experts with often long-lasting and deep relationships with producers, and that you can take advantage of the wine merchants’ superior buying powers to get access to special wines or producers that as a lone collector you may not have access to. Obviously, the trade-off is that you don’t personally select your wines, but letting someone else make that decision can often be a relief!
Over the last few months, I have tried a few different subscription services and will take you through these and give you my thoughts on them:

The Wine Society

The Wine Society is a wonderful merchant whom I believe that every UK wine lover should be a member of. They are run as a co-operative and therefore the profits that they make our put back into the business, which often allows them to keep their prices at a very reasonable level. In fact they went about three or four years recently without putting their prices up; they have had to do so recently due to post-Brexit related currency fluctuations. Another real strength of the Wine Society is that they have been around since 1874 and as such have really well-developed relationships with producers. This translates itself to a very sustainable approach to business, which puts them at odds with supermarkets, who by-and-large use their huge demand to screw down producers to the lowest possible price in order to maximise profits. The Wine Society, however, takes a different approach realising that unless they offer a fair price to their suppliers that they may not exist in the future and that would be to everyone’s detriment. It is fair to say that I favour this approach strongly, over the supermarkets’.
In terms of subscription offerings, the Wine Society has a number of different Vintage Cellar Plans, including “World Classics” (reds from round the world, outside of France), “Claret” and “White Burgundy” cases (which speak for themselves), and lastly “French Classics”. I have been a subscriber for a few years now to their “French Classics”, currently at a subscription level of £55/month, which gets me 24 bottles a year (with an average bottle price of £25 - £30). The bottles are reds from Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône; I wish that I also got some whites, but alas this subscription doesn’t offer any. There is an option to take a supercharged French Classics subscription at £200/month, which gets you even better wines, but that’s a little rich for me…

One of the aspects that I particularly enjoy about the Wine Society’s subscription is that I can transfer the bottles direct to their storage facilities in Stevenage, which means that I can leave the bottles in a well-looked after facility until I am ready for them. At £8 (+VAT) per case of 12 bottles, I feel that this is excellent value. I am still working on getting an area in my house with conditions that I am happy with to store wine for long periods of time, in the meantime I like the fact that I can store these bottles somewhere where they are safe and maturing nicely.

Over the last few months I have withdrawn some of my wines from storage and sampled some to give you an idea of the kinds of wines that I have had within my subscription:

2013 “Les Hauts Jarrons” Premier Cru Savigny-les-Beaunes (Burgundy): Sat lovely and light in the glass, cherry red in colour with a hint of tawny. On the nose the primary aromas were rich, red cherry with a little touch of strawberry compote; there were also some slightly deeper, savoury aromas of bacon and leather. When tasted, the high acidity was notable and gave it a real bite, the dominant flavours were of red fruit. This was a very pleasant wine, that over the next five years is going to be beautiful. I’m glad I have five more bottles!

2009 Château Chasse-Spleen (Moulis en Medoc, Bordeaux): A light ruby in the glass, this had pleasant berry aromas (blackberry and black cherry) with a touch of damson about it. On tasting, this had a really decadent feel to it, soft tannins which have opened up nicely. There were notable dark fruit flavours to the wine (prunes?) and a pleasing pinch of dark chocolate. A real crowd-pleaser of a wine that is drinking very nicely indeed right now.

2010 Pierre Aiguille Paul Jaboulet Aine (Gigondas, Rhone): This is a robust and rich southern Rhone wine made from a blend of Grenach and Syrah. Being that little bit older it has a slightly deeper nose to it with plenty of oak-induced smoke and savoury leather notes to accompany the familiar red berry fruit aromas. On tasting, it has a noticeable weight to it, although it is nicely counter-balanced with a good acidity to the wine, which means that you don't really notice the 14.5% alcohol on the wine. This is a really excellent wine and a timely reminder that the southern Rhone is about much more than just Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
These are just a few examples of the kinds of wines that I've got in my cellar (both the ones that are in my actual house and the ones that are in storage in Stevenage). I look forward to expanding my selection over the coming months and years!

 

20h33


20h33 are a wine importer who specialise in wines from the Bordeaux region; in fact their whole name is a reference to Bordeaux wine - 20 in French is “vignt” which sounds very much like “vin” and 33 is the dialling code in France for Bordeaux… clever, eh?! They have a number of different subscriptions that you can opt for at different pricing levels and different calibres of wine, these range from their Discovery box (£50/month) to their Five Star box (which goes for a stonking £500/month). You get six wines every three months for this - I can only dream of the amazing wines that you’d be getting in the Five Star box - what a treat that would be to come home to! I sampled some of their wines at their “Premium” level (£100/month), which arrived in the post in a very stylish-looking black box.
What I particularly enjoyed about this subscription box was that it contained a selection of wines both red and white - you don’t always fancy a rich, complex, red wine!

2012 Château Lilian Ladouys (Saint Estephe, Bordeaux): Had a really vibrant, rich nose with blackcurrant and blackberry flavours dominant; slightly on the jammy side, even. There was also a faint whiff of smokiness on it, which gave an indication of age and time in barrel. On tasting, the tannins were very much still there and doing their thing. This was quite an austere wine at first that had a nice mid-palate evolution that saw black fruit notes come through, without being overly sweet. A bit of a thinker of a wine. I reckon in two or three more years, this will have softened just a little more and will be absolutely delicious.

2013 Château Samion (Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux): Nice and juicy nose with bags of red fruit personality, strawberries abundant with a side-swipe of blackcurrant and damson coming through. On tasting it was more savoury in profile than I was expecting with a touch of smokey bacon coming through once it had sat in glass for a bit. Probably more developed than I was expecting for a wine of this age. Was a really good food-wine, but also crossed over as a pleasant (if not mind-blowing) sipping wine.

2011 Château Moulin De La Roquille (Cotes de Francs): Featuring a very expressive nose with notes of hawthorne and rose giving it a quite perfumed aroma. There were also primary notes of dark fruit, blueberries and damson, coming to mind. There was also a faint whiff of smoke to the wine, an indication of gentle oak use in the ageing process. On tasting it was rather rich and juicy, with notes of cassis and damson coming to the fore; I thought that perhaps it was a little flabby and needed a little more acidity to give it a little more energy. It was a very pleasing wine to drink, nonetheless.

2015 “Nobody’s Perfect” (Entre Deux Mers, Bordeaux): A Muscadelle, this is an exciting wine made by Dawn Jones-Cooper using a biodynamic winemaking process. On the nose it has bags of stone fruit notes, think peaches and apricots; but with a slight hint of something tropical going on that makes it very interesting. On tasting, this is a lovely and clean wine with subtle citrus fruit notes followed by a delicious minerality that preserves the clarity of the wine. The finish is nice and long due to its wonderful balance. This is a fantastic wine and one that pairs very well with food.

Your Sommelier

The premise behind Your Sommelier is that it was set up by two successful French bankers who, having settled in London, found that they felt that they couldn’t get decent French wine in the UK without paying large sums of money. To remedy this, they set up Your Sommelier which retails wine online and lets people choose between direct purchases and wine subscription boxes (the aim being to take the hassle out of wine selecting, for those people who find it a hassle). Each month you receive three wines, along with product sheets to tell you a bit more about them. I received a selection box from them (disclosure - I was sent this as a sample) that was very much focussed on a Christmas theme - it contained: some bubbles, a claret and a dessert-wine - what more do you need for a Christmas celebration?!

NV Domaine Stoeffler Cremant d’Alsace (Alsace): I am a big fan of cremants, as they represent tremendous value when it comes to bubbles - and I am particularly a fan of cremants from Alsace! This wine features grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois - classic grapes for this region. This wine has a nice mix of juicy, fruity notes (think peaches and apricots), along with a slightly creamy texture that gives the wine a decent profile. What separates this wine from Champagne is the absence of those richer, biscuity notes; but not everyone likes those! This is a very pleasant wine for toasts and aperitifs as it has such a nice clean palate. At c. £12 bottle too, it represents exceptional value!

2014 Château Moulin de l’Esperance Cuvée Ulysse (Bordeaux): This was a somewhat-disappointing entry level Bordeaux. It had some decent, primary fruit notes, but not much beyond that. In terms of finish, it was all over a little quick really. Bordeaux is one of those regions where you have to spend a bit of money to get a wine worth noting and I feel that this one fell a little short of my expectations (particularly when compared against the others I have noted in this article - although admitting that you have to pay more for these wines).

NV Vignoble des Aubas Gros-Mansang Moelleux (Cotes de Gascogne): This is a pleasing wine (provided, of course, that you like dessert wines. This does a good job of balancing sweet notes on the wine with decent acidity, which means that it doesn’t get too cloying. Overall it is not the most complex dessert wine that I have ever tried, most of the flavour is in the primary notes of candied pineapple and honey. There is however a decent whack of acidity on it, though, which stops it being overly cloying.

Their “Discovery Box” is £36/month, whereas their “Expert Box” reaches up to £60/month (featuring wines from more renowned appellations and producers versus the Discovery Box).

Conclusion

There you have it, a number of different options available to the budding wine connoisseur, who wants to either expand their collection or perhaps learn more about a wine region/area. For those who can afford it, I think setting aside £50 - £100 a month and putting it in the hands of someone who knows what they are doing when it comes to buying good wine will quickly help you develop a little portfolio of wines to choose from. After all, you may have the option later on as your collection blossoms and matures to be able to get into selling some of the wines that you have in your collection (and use the proceeds to purchase some new wines?!).
So, with Christmas coming up - perhaps a wine subscription could be a nice gift idea for that special wine lover in your life?! Or perhaps you can treat yourself? After all, you have been a good boy/girl this year, haven't you...?